A plant-based guide to Jordan
by Jasmin Howarth - Community Manager
Jordan is a country of rich history, culture, and stunning landscapes with ancient heritage. From the red sands of Wadi Rum to the lush Dana Reserve and the tranquil Dead Sea, the country offers diverse natural beauty. Iconic sites like Petra and Jerash showcase its ancient wonders, while Amman thrives as a vibrant, modern capital where the call to prayer echoes around the city.
Jordanian cuisine, influenced by Bedouin and Mediterranean traditions, delights with flavours like za’atar and pomegranate. Known for its warm hospitality and peaceful spirit, Jordan is a welcoming destination for both foodies, culture nerds and adventure seekers. (I definitely fit into all of these categories!)
The best time to travel to Jordan is late October to early November, before the rainy season starts. Temperatures range from 5 degrees in the desert at night to 28 degrees in the day at The Dead Sea. Perfect conditions for outdoor activities and exploring.
Travel Advice
TIP 1: A car is essential, however driving in Jordan is an experience that takes years off your life! I would advise that you hire a car from the airport and travel around the country avoiding Amman. Return your car and use taxis for getting around Amman and back to the airport. And take out the full insurance policy! Alternatively, if your budget allows you could hire a driver for the duration of your stay.
TIP 2: Jordanian portion sizes are generally massive (and I eat a lot!). So order a couple of things and then add more if required. Otherwise you’ll be rolling out of restaurants!
TIP 3: Jordan is a muslim country and therefore women are required to dress modestly. Cover your legs fully and wear loose fitting tops that cover your shoulders. A head scarf is required in religious places. I was mostly in linen trousers and t-shirts.
Amman (2 days)
Amman, the vibrant capital of Jordan, is a captivating blend of ancient and modern influences. With its bustling souks, historical sites like the Roman Theater, and trendy cafés, Amman offers a lively cultural and culinary scene. Its streets are a canvas of heritage, with iconic dishes served at both local food stalls and upscale restaurants.
Where to stay:
Where to eat:
Sufra for a special meal, gorgeous courtyard garden, the best traditional Jordanian food we had. The portion sizes were sensible.
We Farm All VEGAN! Freshly-made ice creams to order, juices and smoothies, stuffed dates and sweet treats
Rumman Collective Great for breakfast and lunch, plus fun kombucha, ferments and teas. Gorgeous art and shop on the ground floor. Cute courtyard or internal rooms and balcony to sit in.
Shamal el Balad For lunch and dinner. Beautiful building with an outside-inside feel. Great selection of local dishes with a twist. Cute shop with local art and handicrafts.
Joz Hind A small family-run kitchen using only local fresh ingredients mostly organic. Menu changes daily, with a simple selection of juices, soup and mains.
Manara Close to the Bulbul Airbnb, it’s got a great view. Perfect for a cake and coffee.
Jadal A place of art and culture, which serves simple dishes, treats and drinks. Check out what they have going on as they have a range of activities focussing Jordanian heritage.
What to do:
Wild Jordan Centre for local crafts and souvenirs
Galleries
Trinitae Natural Dead Sea and aromatherapy products. The building is stunning and the shop is vast.
Dana Nature Reserve (1-2 days)
Dana Nature Reserve is a breathtaking eco-destination, known for its dramatic landscapes of sandstone cliffs, verdant valleys, and desert plateaus. It’s a haven for hikers and nature lovers, offering trails that meander through diverse ecosystems rich with rare wildlife and stunning views.
Where to stay + eat:
Feynan Ecolodge (All food and activities included. Supports and employs the local Bedouin tribes. Off grid, lit by candles at night and powered by solar during the day.)
What to do:
Trails, stargazing, Bedouin experience making bread and coffee (included in your stay at Feynan)
Wadi Rum (1-2 days)
Often referred to as the "Valley of the Moon," Wadi Rum is a vast, otherworldly desert landscape famous for its red sand dunes, towering rock formations, and clear starry nights. This UNESCO World Heritage site is a hotspot for adventure, with activities like camel rides, 4x4 desert tours, and overnight stays in Bedouin-style camps.
Where to stay + eat:
Gamra Eco Camp (Off-grid, large mud brick buildings, lit with fairy lights and candles. Great hot water, fully equipped kitchen and super comfy beds) Breakfast and dinner included, you get your personal chef/security guard. You can arrange activities and experiences through your host).
What to do:
Sunrise hot air balloon, star gazing, 4x4 trip, sunset ride, sunrise summit hike, camp fire
Petra (2 days)
Petra, the rose-red city, is hands down Jordan’s most famous treasure: a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. Carved into the stunning sandstone cliffs by the Nabataeans 4,000 years ago, it’s a place that truly takes your breath away. From the awe-inspiring Treasury to the majestic Monastery, every corner of Petra feels like stepping back in time to a world of ancient wonders.
Where to stay:
Mövenpick Resort (Petra is VERY touristy, you cannot escape it. But this hotel is in a great location right next to the main entrance. Rooms are smart and food is good for a buffet).
Where to eat:
Jordan Heritage Restaurant (Showcasing the traditional foods of Jordan’s different regions, a cool building in a very commercial area).
What to do:
Early morning take a taxi to Little Petra (approx. 20 JD), it’ll take you about an hour to walk around. Then get the OFFICIAL 4x4 transfer to the back entrance of Petra. Do NOT use a local taxi as they drop you off about 1.5 hours walk away from where you need to be as they aren’t allowed off-road. Do not fall for the sales pitch, just buy the official tickets and wait in the truck until the driver is ready.
Then hike to the Monastery, through the city of Petra and out to the Treasury. Petra is enormous! I genuinely underestimated the sheer size of the place. Two days are required here if you actually want to stop and take in the magic of the place.
Hike to the place of high sacrifice. Another early morning start. If you can be at the gates at 6:30 when it opens then you’ll get to discover the Siq and Treasury, all by yourself, all over again. The morning light is something else. Note that this is about a 40 minute walk down, 50 minutes back up as it’s uphill(!).
Petra by night experience (17 JD pp). Only available on Mondays, Wednesdays and Thursdays. The way down the Siq to the Treasury is lit with over 1,500 candles in paper bags. There is storytelling and traditional music, and a (inappropriately colourful) lightshow at the end. A magical and eerie experience (but we didn’t stay until the end and so had the Siq to ourselves on the return journey).
Mujib Biosphere Reserve + The Dead Sea (1-2 days)
Mujib is an adventure-lover’s paradise, famous for its dramatic canyons and thrilling river treks. It is the lowest nature reserve on Earth, located near the Dead Sea, and offers a unique opportunity to explore lush waterfalls and rugged landscapes.
The Dead Sea is a natural wonder and a must-visit destination (the sea itself is 450m BELOW sea level!!). Known for its extremely salty waters and mineral-rich mud, it offers unparalleled buoyancy for floating and a spa-like experience. The serene atmosphere and stunning sunsets daily.
Where to stay:
Mujib Chalets (serves breakfast). These are very isolated and non-commercial but that’s what we wanted. There are resorts further north which have swimming pools and activities if that’s more your vibe.
Where to eat:
Beit Sweimeh (Apart from the hotel restaurant there aren’t any other food options around. It’s a bit of a drive but amazing food prepared by local women, supported by Unicef. Beautiful rooftop terrace with sunset views. Be prepared with Google translate! Get the spicy potatoes.)
What to do: Siq Trail (100% get the jelly shoes and wear active-wear, you will get getting 100% wet) or Ibex Trail depending on the weather. Swim/float in the Dead Sea. Do not get your face wet and be cautious if you have any open wounds, the salt stings!
Madaba (0.5 day)
A charming town south of Amman, is famous for its rich Byzantine and early Islamic heritage. It’s best known for the Madaba Map, a stunning 6th-century mosaic depicting the Holy Land, located in St. George’s Church. The town is also home to other beautiful mosaics, which can be found in local museums and churches. Madaba offers a unique glimpse into Jordan’s religious and artistic history.
On your way to Madaba I would definitely recommend visiting Mount Nebo (where Moses saw the Promised Land and where he is allegedly buried), and Bethany Beyond the Jordan (Baptism site of Jesus Christ and birthplace of Christianity. Also the river Jordan forms the border with Israel). I’m not a religious person but the significance and history of these places is undeniable.
Where to eat:
Kawon Once Upon a Time (magic garden full of murals, quirky furniture and citrus trees, the only place to serve vegan labneh and different plant milks!)
What to do: souvenir shopping, explore ALL the mosaics
Karak (0.5 day)
Karak, a historic city in southern Jordan, is best known for its impressive Karak Castle, a Crusader-era fortress that offers stunning views of the surrounding valley. The castle, once a strategic stronghold, is a fascinating blend of history and architecture, with its labyrinth of rooms and towers. The town itself is also famous for its Karak tea, a spiced, sweet drink that’s a local favorite.
Where to eat: Fursan Almadena Restaurant
The restaurant is run by volunteers and supports local women who make the dishes served there. There is also a shop next door that sells handicrafts of the local women too.
What to do: explore the castle and walk around the town
Jerash (0.5 day)
Often called the "Pompeii of the East," is one of the best-preserved Roman cities outside of Italy. Located in northern Jordan, this archaeological treasure showcases grand colonnaded streets, towering temples, and an impressive amphitheater. Walking through its ancient gates and forums, visitors are transported back to the height of Roman civilization.
Where to eat:
Lebanese Um Khalil (This was the first meal we had in Jordan and my gosh did it set the bar high! Incredible meze, amazing flavours, all vegan options on the menu highlighted, so much choice!)
What to do: explore Jerash. This place is massive and you can explore almost every part of it. It’s an amazing place to get up close and personal with Roman history.
Flavours of Jordan
Traditional breakfast: dates, halva, vegetables, stews, hummus, olive oil, za’atar and flat breads. Served with black coffee.
Jordan’s emphasis on fresh, seasonal ingredients ensures a wealth of plant-based options. Whether you’re enjoying vibrant salads, warm breads dipped in olive oil, or comforting teas and coffees, the cuisine celebrates simple, flavourful combinations that cater to every palate. Jordanian hospitality often begins with food (the portions are massive) and plant-based travellers will find themselves more than well-fed in this culinary-rich country.
TIP: Veganism is generally an understood concept and most restaurants mark up their allergens or if items are ‘VG’, but dairy is used in many traditional dishes. So explain that you can’t have milk and most of the time they can accommodate.
Jordanian cuisine is a delightful mix of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern flavors, characterised by the use of fresh ingredients, aromatic spices, and time-honored cooking techniques. Here are some must-try dishes, drinks and flavours:
Lemon + mint juice
A refreshing staple in Jordan, perfect for quenching your thirst on a warm day. Made from freshly squeezed lemons, blended with fresh mint leaves, sugar, and ice, it strikes the perfect balance between tangy, sweet, and cooling. This vibrant green drink is a favorite in cafés and restaurants across Jordan, often served alongside meals or as a midday pick-me-up.
Maqluba
Maqluba, meaning “upside-down” in Arabic, is a beloved Jordanian dish known for its dramatic presentation: flipping it upside down onto a serving platter. For a plant-based maqluba, layers of vegetables like aubergine, cauliflower, potatoes, and carrots are combined with rice, infused with spices like cinnamon, allspice, and turmeric.
Falafel and hummus
The OG combination with chickpeas, herbs, and spices, enjoyed with freshly baked bread. They also do incredible pickled vegetables, so make sure you add a side of those to any meze!
Za’atar
The flavour of Jordan, is a fragrant blend of thyme, sumac, sesame seeds, and sometimes oregano. Its tangy, earthy flavor shines on mana’eesh (flatbread with olive oil and za’atar) and enhances vegetables, dips, and more. It has a beautiful fine texture and can literally go on anything. (I brought a 1kg home with me!)
Pomegranates
A symbol of prosperity and flavor, pomegranates are widely used in Jordanian dishes. Their ruby-red seeds are sprinkled over salads like fattoush, adding a burst of tart sweetness. Pomegranate molasses, a syrupy reduction, is a key ingredient in dressings, marinades, and dips, enhancing dishes with its tangy depth.
Turkish Breakfast
A Jordanian breakfast often takes inspiration from Turkish traditions, featuring a spread of small dishes that showcase fresh, plant-based-friendly flavors. Expect a table laden with tangy olives, diced tomatoes and cucumbers, fruity jams, hummus, and savoury pastries like mana'eesh (flatbread topped with za'atar). It’s an indulgent way to start the day, accompanied by fluffy bread and strong Turkish coffee.
Halva
This sesame-based dessert is a beloved sweet treat in Jordan. Often served with the Turkish Breakfast. Its crumbly, rich texture pairs perfectly with a cup of Turkish coffee. Halva is often flavored with pistachios, vanilla, or chocolate, and can also be enjoyed spread on warm bread.
Dates
Dates hold a special place in Jordanian culture, offering a natural sweetness that’s both nutritious and delicious. They’re often enjoyed as a simple snack or used in desserts, such as date-filled cookies (ka’ak bi ajwa).
Breads
Bread is an essential part of every meal in Jordan. Taboon bread, a chewy flatbread, is perfect for scooping up hummus or baba ghanoush. Shrak, a paper-thin bread, is a staple in Bedouin cooking, often wrapped around grilled vegetables or falafel. Mana’eesh, topped with za'atar, makes a satisfying breakfast or snack.
Sumac
This tangy spice, made from dried and ground berries, is a cornerstone of Jordanian cuisine. Sumac’s lemony flavor enhances salads, roasted vegetables, and dips. It’s a key ingredient in fatayer (spinach pies) and the iconic fattoush salad, where it pairs perfectly with crispy pita chips and fresh greens.
Turkish Coffee
Rich, aromatic, and deeply rooted in tradition, Turkish coffee is a must-try in Jordan. Prepared with finely ground coffee, cardamom, and sugar, it’s served in small cups. It’s often enjoyed alongside sweet treats like halva or pomegranate-studded pastries.
Bedouin tea + coffee
A quintessential part of Jordan’s culture, especially in the desert regions like Wadi Rum. There is a lot of ritual and tradition surrounding the making and serving of these drinks. Traditionally brewed over an open fire, this tea is made with black tea leaves, flavored with a mix of aromatic herbs such as sage, cardamom, or thyme, and sweetened generously with sugar. Coffee is made with toasted green coffee beans and cardamom.
The both are served in small glasses and they are more than just drinks - it’s a symbol of Bedouin hospitality and a way to welcome guests. Sharing a cup while sitting around a fire under the desert stars is one of the most authentic and memorable experiences Jordan has to offer.